Photography - Basic Considerations
Link
to DTW Tutorial on Photography 
This was written for a simple SLR Film Camera BUT now that SLR Digital Cameras
have become affordable, this tutorial has been reborn. Most of what you read here will
apply to a digital SLR. However, some details will be different especially when it comes
to reading the settings which will be displayed differently with a digital camera.
Do you need a Personal Camera?
Most Probably!!!! Especially for your Field Work
Landscapes of Study Sites (Near & Far)
Specimens in the Field (Near & Far)
Specimens in the Lab (Near & Very Near)
"Close Up" Macrophotography (Dept. Resources)
D. Webb, (G. Carr = Expert!!!!!) Kim Bridges & Will McClatchy plus OthersMicrophotography
Should produce "Publication" Quality Images
Should be a Single Lens Reflex (SLR) Camera
Should be capable of Distance, Macro & perhaps Microphotography
Should be useful under Field & Lab Conditions
Should be capable of taking Still Images & Video
Can record Audio
A
Digital Video Camera may satisfy most of your
needs!
(Talk to Dr. Bridges and Dr. McClatchy about this)
Camera alone will be required for photos of
Living Specimens (Dept. Resources)
Herbarium Specimens (Digital Darkroom)
Maps & Models etc. (Dept. Resources)
Underwater
Photography
(Dr. Celia Smith & her Students)
Camera & Dissecting Microscope will be required for some studies. The Botany Department has some limited resources in this area but it is not a strong suit with us. Nikon makes a Field Dissecting Scope!
Camera & Compound Microscope are necessary for many kinds of research.
Some Digital Cameras
can readily attach to a wide range of Microscopes. I am
familiar with Nikon
Coolpix Models (990, 995 & 4500)
Some sort of Adapter will be required to attach the Camera to the Microscope.
Microscope Adapters
can be found on the Internet!
http://www.zarfenterprises.com/
Microphotography resources are available in the Botany Department BUT it is the best of all worlds if you have your own Camera & Adapter. You can go almost anywhere and take microphotos with the right camera & adapter!
Botany Faculty Microphotography Resources
D.
Webb (for sure)
If I don't have it I will try to get you to work with someone who does.
Other Potential Sources Botany (G. Wong, G. Carr, C. Smith, D. Drake, L. Sack, A. Sherwood & Others, )
Important Campus Microphotography Resource
Univ. of Hawaii, Pacific Biomedical Research, Biological Electron Microscope Facility
(Supervisor: Tina M. (Weatherby) Carvalho)
Light Microscopy, Confocal Microscopy, Image Analysis, Scanning Electron Microscopy,
Transmission Electron MicroscopyYou or your Advisor Must Pay for these Services.
Consultation is FREE!
However, this is usually money well spent!
Faculty or Department might have funds for this.
Small Grants may be obtained once the scope o f the project has been identified.
Film Cameras are becoming obsolete and some prominent manufacturers are no longer making new models.
However, there may be situations where film is preferable to digital media. However, I can't think of one at the moment.
Good Film Cameras = Single Lens Reflex (SLR)
With an SLR you See Through the Lens to Compose the Subject, Focus on the Subject & Adjust the Exposure.
A Simple Film Camera with Minimal Electronics may be a Good Field Camera unless you need Special Features.
Some Brands are better than others!
Use the Internet to search out Reviews.
Ask colleagues if they can recommend a reliable field camera!
I still use a Pentax K 1000 camera for landscapes and flower photos. These cameras are virtually indestructible!
The famous photographer of Native Americans (E. S. Curtis) used a large old-fashioned plate camera. He dropped it descending the Grand Canyon. However, he managed to put it back together and got excellent images thereafter. We should be so clever & fortunate!
Used Cameras can be cheap and might make good Starter Cameras.
However, Film & Processing are EXPENSIVE & FALLIBLE
Inexpensive Digital Cameras have a View Finder & LCD Screen.
The LCD Screen shows you the subject and displays lots of information concerning the image.
LCD Screens are rather Small and Difficult to See, especially in the Field.
When I am outside, I need to shade the LCD Screen on my camera with my body in order to see it properly, even so, this is not totally satisfactory.
The LCD Screen can be used to Frame and Focus on the Subject, and to View the Images you have just taken or any prior image that is stored in the memory card.
This can be a BIG Problem because it can be Difficult to Focus on the Subject or Evaluate your Images by looking at the LCD Screen.This is especially true Outside! Close-Ups can be Especially Difficult!
SLR Digital Cameras
This is what you should aim for!
Canon probably makes the Best Digital Cameras right now!
Old Lenses
from Film SLR Cameras may
be Compatible with Digital SLRs!
This can be an important feature as lenses are expensive. You may already have
lenses that can be used, and used lenses can be purchased.
Just as a good set of speakers are essential for high quality sound, good lenses are essential for high quality images!
SLR Digital Cameras are
Available & Costs are Falling.
Recent Review of 8 Megapixel Cameras
Links to Digital SLRs $1K or Less
Environmental Insults
(Water, Water, Water)Salt Water is Most Dangerous!
Rain, Mist & Fresh Water are also Dangerous.
Water damages Electronics & Moving Parts.
Good Underwater Film Cameras are very Expensive.
Underwater Cameras & Housings are available for many Digital Cameras.
These can be used in Terrestrial Environments as well. They keep out almost everything! ( http://www.digideep.com/ ) ( http://www.gateshousings.com/ )
Canon Digital Camera Underwater Photography Guide. http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/uwphoto/index-e.html
Other Insults = Temperature, Dirt, Impact.....
Use an Underwater Housing for challenging situations like the Tropical Rainforest.
I once purchased an electronic film camera. It ceased functioning after one excursion into the rainforest. It did not get visibly wet. However, the humidity was enough to destroy the electronics. I had this camera repaired twice and it always failed after a short time, even though I was living in Canada and protected it from the environment. This doesn't mean that you should avoid cameras with a lot of electronics. It is merely a precautionary tale of woe that I needed to share with the world!
Protect Camera with Camera Case. This provides minimal protection.
Have a small Padded Camera Pack and/or surround the camera with Bubble Wrap.
Carry Camera in Water Proof Bags. Zipper Plastic Bags make a cheap alternative.
Filters
(These Screw into Threads on Primary Lens)
Discussion of Filters for Digital Cameras
Ultra Violet (UV) Filter
(Available for Film & Digital Cameras)These Reduce UV Light. Digital Cameras are generally less affected by UV compared to Film.
UV filter Protects the Lens from Dirt & Water.
They do not generally affect Exposure Settings or Image Quality.
This is probably the Single Most important Filter for Field Photography.
They Reduce Glare. This is a problem with Most Biological Specimens.Maximal effects are obtained when the Sun is directly behind you as you face the Subject. However, you will get beneficial effects regardless!
They ameliorate Highlight "Blow Out". This is a Common Problem with Digital Cameras.
They allow you to see aquatic organisms near the surface. This is why fishermen wear Polarized Sunglasses!
Polarizers can be useful for Photographing Subjects through Glass in Aquariums, Terrariums or Museums.
Polarizers give more Saturated Colors with Leaves, Flowers & Fruits. This is true for any subject that is highly reflective.
Be sure to avoid using Tinted Polarizers. These provide dramatic images but they Alter Natural Colors.
It Easy to assess the Effects of a Polarizer with an SLR Camera. This can be Difficult with LCD Screens.
You do this by
By rotating the Polarizing Filter you can see its effects in most cases.
Otherwise, you can see its effects on the exposure settings. Maximal polarization will reduce the amount of light hitting the Light Meter. Thus, a smaller f-number or longer shutter speed will be indicated when you achieve maximal polarization.
Maximal Polarization is achieved when the sun is directly behind you as you face the subject.
Maximum Polarization will reduce the amount of light and thus alter the shutter speed or f-stop.
It may not be as Easy to Use Polarizers with Digital Cameras that Only have LCD Screens?
View Finders will not be affected by Polarizers because the Polarizer covers the camera lens, not the View Finder Lens.
I have found it much harder to tell when the Polarizer is in the maximum position with Nikon Coolpix 995 & 4500 LCD Screens. I get the best results when I am wearing a pair of Polarizing Sunglasses to look at the LCD Screen Screen and assess the effects of the Polarizer on the Image. Even then, I am unsure of the results and look foolish! Carumba!
This is not a problem with the Canon Rebel Digital SLR. I don't have any first-hand experience with other Digital SLRs but they should be similar to the Canon Rebel. but it should be easier to use with one of these.
Neutral Density Filters (NDFs)
These Reduce the Total Amount of Light, but they do Not Alter its Spectral (Color) Qualities.
These are Essential for Flash Macrophotography when the Flash is Part of the Camera and can't be moved away from the subject. Otherwise photos can be Overexposed and appear washed out .
NDFs come in units of ND2, ND4 or ND8. The number reflects the number of f-stops. An ND2 filter reduces the amount of light by 2 f-stops. These can be combined.
They Reduce High Contrast Blow Out
"High Lights" can be "Blown Out" and Lack Color especially with Flash Photos!
Overexposed Flash Photo Same Photo with Neutral Density Filter. A Polarizer is also a 2 stop Neutral Density Filter. This has a double barreled effect! Watch out you varmint!
NDFs can make Focusing Harder especially in Low Light conditions.
Graduated NDFs have a Dark to Clear Gradient). This can help Solve the problem of having a Light Background and Dark Foreground. This can be good for scenic pictures but be careful for research.
These provide Macro Capability for a Standard Lens.
However, they produce Spherical Aberrations at the Image Periphery.
Use of a Small Aperture (large f-number) can compensate for the Spherical Aberration. This Decreases Shutter Speed, however, which can create other problems!Some Digital Cameras (Nikon Coolpix 995 & 4500) have tremendous "as is" Macro Capabilities! Check this out before you buy a Digital Camera.
Color Film is balanced for Bright Daylight.
Films from different manufacturers may have different qualities.
Slide film differs from Print Film and Prints differ from Negatives when they are scanned!
Various filters are available that provide the "right" color balance when artificial light sources are used.
Incandescent and Fluorescent lights do not produce the same quality of light that is found in Sun Light.
Digital Cameras may have "Built In" features like "White Balance" This allows you to select the kind of light you are using and the camera's software compensates for this.
You should Change the White Balance BEFORE you Take your Photos. However, some Image Editing Programs allow you to do this ex post facto!
Color Filters have different effects for Digital Cameras compared to Film. Be Careful.
Telephoto Extenders
(Magnifying Lenses)These go Behind Primary Lens for SLRs.
They Screw into Lens of typical Digital Cameras (i.e. Nikon Coolpix).2X = Most Common for Film Cameras
3X = Available but hard to use!Digital Cameras - (2X & 3X) Available for Some Models
(i.e. Nikon Coolpix 990, 995 & 4500)They Increase Telephoto Capabilities and Provide Macro-like Capabilities.
They Increase the Working Distance (Distance from Lens to Subject) this can be Good for Macrophotography.
They Reduce the amount of Light that reaches the Light Meter, Sensor or Film.
This can Impair Focusing and it Alters Exposure Settings.
They may be Awkward to use, especially in the Field!
The screw on Close Up Filters may be preferable to Telephoto Extenders for Field Work.
Filters tend to Increase incidence of Flare.
Flare most commonly resembles a cascade of light prisms when the sun or a bright light source is inside or near the margin of the lens.
Vignetting
can be a problem. Vignetting Reduces the Peripheral Area of the Subject that can be Photographed.
Extension Tubes
(Go behind Primary Lens)These may be available for Digital SLRs.
They are a Set of Hollow Tubes.
They Move Primary Lens further from the Film/Sensor Plane.
They can be Used Solo or Combined.
They provide Macro Capabilities similar to a Telephoto Extender.
They Increase Magnification for Close-Ups.
They do NOT enhance Telephoto Capabilities!
They are Very Awkward, especially in the Field.
They Decrease the Working Distance (distance between the front of the lens and the subject). This is a Problem for Macrophotography.
Their use usually requires the use of a Flash or Tripod for Macrophotos, especially in the Field.
They do Not Introduce any new Lens Aberrations because they do not have Lenses inside of them!
There is Only a Small Loss of Light because there is only Air between the Lens and the Film or Sensor.
However, the Proximity to the Subject to the Front of the Lens and consequent Self-Shading can Reduce the Amount of Light Entering the Lens.
Human Hand
To Freeze Action you need Shutter Speeds of 1/125 sec. or Less.
You can use slower shutter speeds if you brace against Trees, Rocks, Ground, or Breathe like a Marksman. Take a Deep Breath, exhale half & Push Shutter Button. Yes Drill Sergeant!
These have a Screw Mount that fits in the Camera Base.
Some are constructed like a Telescope and allow for Adjustments in Height.
Monopods are a good Idea for most Field Work.
They can provide Stability on Rocky or Slippery Substrates.
They can help to hold back Brush when Bushwhacking.
Tripods have Three Legs and thus provide more stability compared to a Monopod.
Tripods come in a variety of sizes and configurations.
You need to decide what features you need before you order one.
Monopod or Tripod
May be essential, especially under low light or unstable conditions that would exist for a Dense Forest or Cave.
A Flash can solve some of these problems! The flash pulse is approximately 1/1000 sec. and will freeze most action.
Adjusting the Film Sensitivity (ISO) can be helpful. This can be dine with some Digital Cameras. By increasing the ISO value you can decrease the effective shutter speed for a given situation.
Dr. Bridges has designed a Custom Monopod that performs Several Functions.
These are used to secure the camera and have various types of lights that illuminate the subject.
The Digital Darkroom has a nice Copy Stand
The Flash Pulse is approximately 1/1000 sec.
This Freezes Most Movement.
The Light Quality of the flash is Similar to Daylight.
A Flash is almost a necessity for Macrophotography, especially in the Field.
Leaves and Flowers move with the slightest wind.
Animals are rarely stationary!
A Ring Flash is best for Macrophotography. It provides "shadow-free" images.
Plamps help to Stabilize Plants for Photography!
You should check this out for the camera you are considering.
The built-in flash on most cameras will do well for normal photos BUT may not work for Macrophotography.
It is often desirable to have a hand-held flash that is connected to the camera so that it fires when the shutter is activated. This allows you to alter the position of the flash to suit the situation.Dedicated flashes can be Camera Specific & Costly.
Slave Flashes may solve some problems. These fire remotely and are tripped by the camera's Built-In Flash. No camera connection is required.
The Royal Horticultural Society publishes a Colour Chart that can be used to standardize your photos. This consists of reference cards of standard colors that can be compared to unknown colors. There are various light quality considerations that must be made when using these BUT it should be possible to set up a situation so that these cards could be used to provide a solid color reference.
Dr. Bridges has purchased software that will allow us to standardize colors for our digital images.
Film Resolution & Sensitivity to Light go
Hand in HandLow ISO Films (25-100) have Greater Resolution but have Low Sensitivities to Light.
ISO 100 is Good for standard outdoor conditions.
ISO 50 - 25 are Better for High Light conditions.High ISO Films (200 -> 1600) have Progressively Less Resolution with Progressively Greater Light Sensitivity
Experiment to Match Film to your Situation(s)!Advanced Digital Cameras allow you to change the ISO Setting to compensate for lighting conditions! This can solve a lot of logistical problems!
Slide Film
Slide Film has Greater Resolution vs Print Film
Not Forgiving with Over- or Under- Exposed Images (Especially with Flash)
Print Film
Cheaper vs Slide Film
Less Resolution vs Slide Film
(May be adequate for your Data)Very Forgiving with Over- or Under- Exposed Images
Get Negative & Print
Good! Provides a Backup
Bad! Color Differs between Print & Negative when Scanned (Digitized)
A Digital Camera is in Your Future!
Digital Camera Resources On-line
Recent Digital Camera ReviewsNeedless to say, you should consult several sources and talk to faculty and students before you buy one!
Details can be found at the following URL http://clarkvision.com. This is a major Website that deals with Film & Digital Photography in Great Detail!
Another Powerful but Technical Website on Digital Photography is found at the following URL. http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html
Film versus Digital Cameras by
Robert Monaghan
(http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/filmwins.html) This
Website is an excellent, "in depth" Reference.
Image Detail
One Basic Question is how many Megapixels do you need to match the quality of Slide Film.
Most Scientists I know use Ektachrome or Fujichrome (ISO 100)
A 5-6 Megapixel Digital Camera can match this.
Roger Clark discusses this topic in depth in depth and you should consult his articles.
If you need to photograph subjects that move fast, like hummingbirds or insects you might need to look at more than the number of Megapixels that a camera delivers.
There is usually a delay between the time you trip the shutter and the instant when an image is captured by a digital camera. This doesn't happen with a film camera and surprising results occur if you are not aware of this when you take digital images.
It takes extremely fast shutter speeds to take "stop action" images of some animals. This may require the use of high ISO "film" and a camera with a fast digital sensor. You must carefully select a camera that will meet special needs.
There are some limited conditions where film is superior but overall, a good digital camera will be equal or superior to film.
High End SLR Camera Sensors are 22+ mm diagonally.
A Compact Digital Camera Sensor is typically 11 mm diagonally
These have Less Dynamic Range & Sensitivity vs Larger Sensors
They are good enough for 8" x 11" prints! These are larger than any scientific journal would print!
"Digital SLRs will probably stick with 5-9 µm pixels and evolve towards larger sensors with more pixels. "
Smaller Pixels = More Noise
The Optimum Pixel Size for High Quality Imaging seems to be in the 6-9 µm range.
Compact Digital Cameras have pixels smaller than 4 µm.
"A 24x36 mm sensor with 16+ megapixels (7.4 µm or less pixel spacing) will have performance approaching medium format camera."
The prevalent sensor for Digital Cameras is called CCD (Charge Coupled Device)
The latest, improved sensor is called CMOS (Complimentary Metal Oxide Semiconductor)
More functions can be integrated on this chip.
Bayer pattern sensorsConventional Digital Sensors have their pixels arranged as shown on the right, in a pattern known as the Bayer Mask (or filter or mosaic or CFA), with two green pixels for each red and blue pixel. This is appropriate because the eye is most sensitive to green.
Each Sensor registers only one Color
Some loss of resolution occurs because Interpolation is used to render the image.
Foveon's
X3 sensors (2002) Each sensor registers all 3 primary colorsMuch better Resolution is achieved!
Keep this in mind when you are buying a camera.
It is important to remember that you will still get good results with an inexpensive camera BUT a small extra outlay may be beneficial in the long run.
You need to Learn how to Edit your
Digital Photos.
Software
It is BEST to use one of the Adobe PhotoShop programs.
"PhotoShop" is considered the best and It is widely used.
Ability to use PhotoShop looks good on your resume!
Adobe sells "PhotoShop Elements" which has virtually all of the features you need.
- It costs $50 - 100 (check out our Bookstore, COSTCO or SAM's)
- PhotoshopLE often comes bundled with a Scanner or Digital Camera.
- I have a Tutorial on how to use PhotoShop LE
Basic Image Editing Considerations & Steps
Take the Image at the Highest or Next to Highest Image Quality Setting of the Camera.
Raw Images contain all of the data captured by the Sensors in the Camera.
You will need Software to convert Raw Images to *.tif or *.jpg
Raw Images produce files that are smaller than *.tif but larger than *.jpg.
Digital Memory Cards like Compact Flash have become rather inexpensive. Consequently, the use of Raw Images is feasible.
Most Digital Cameras do some Automatic Image Processing when they store the data as *.jpg or *.tif files to the Memory Card in the Camera.
You may be able to do a better job on your PC.
Raw Images are stored without "on board" Image Editing.
These can be edited later when they are downloaded to a Computer.
You should determine if you need to generate Raw Images for your work & check to see if it is available for the camera you want to buy!
Many Digital Cameras will allow you to record your images as *.tif Files.
These are extremely LARGE files.
They may take a long time to save in the camera.
The next step down will record a High Quality *.jpg file.
These do not contain all of the data because the Process of creating a *.jpg images is a "loosey compression" .
This means that some of the details are lost when the data is compressed.
This is probably OK for most uses.
The resulting *.jpg file size is approximately 25% of the same *.tif image in terms of Megabytes.
These *.jpg files are rapidly stored in the camera & you can store many more *.jpg images compared to *.tif images.
Many seconds (30) may be needed to save *.tif files to the camera's memory!
The "Fine" setting on a Nikon Coolpix 990 (3.34 Megapixel) camera produces an image 2048 x 1536 PIXEL *.jpg image.
- This equals a approx. a 7" x 5" print.
- This should be adequate for most uses.
A 4 Megapixel Camera produces
- 2,272 X 1,704 Pixel image.
- This equals a 7.6" x 5.7" print.
Always make a Copy of an Important Image before you Edit it.
Save this as a *.tif file!
You can always go back to this if your Image Editing becomes a fiasco!
Basic Image Editing
These are the operations I routinely perform with my digital Microscope Images.
They may not be the same for other kinds of images.
I have reduced the size of the image to 600 pixels. This is a good size for large Webpage Images.
The full Images can be seen by clicking on the Images in the Table.
The first Step is to Adjust the "Levels" of an Image.
Select Image -> Adjust -> Levels
This brings up a Graph with Sliding Handles
The Handles correspond from Left to Right with the Darkest Tones, Midtones and High Lights.
The Handles can be moved by dragging with a Mouse.
This Image is deficient in the lightest tones. By dragging the right-hand handle to the Left I am setting the brightest tones for this image.
This results in a distribution that is more balanced than that present for the original image.
This alone may be sufficient to improve the quality of your image! I have resurrected some really dark images using this procedure.
Similar Histograms can be found in other image editing programs under a range of titles. One image editor uses Tone Balance to produce a similar histogram as above.
Image Sizing
Always use an Image Editor to Downsize your Images.
An Image has 2 sizes.
One is the Memory it takes to Store them (file size)
The other is its Appearance on the Monitor or Print
You can change the Apparent Size of the Image on your Monitor without changing its file size.
Consequently, an image the size of a Postage Stamp may contain 5 Megabytes of Data!
Altering the file size will also change the size of the image on your monitor.
I make several sizes of each Image I use for my Websites.
In general a Good Thumbnail = 150 pixels.
An intermediate Image = 250-300 pixels.
A large image = 600 pixels wide
With the proliferation of high speed Internet connections it is possible to use larger images than previously thought wise. However, a large image may be disruptive if you want the text to be coherent. Thus, the use of Thumbnails persists.
Where Digital Comes Out Ahead
- near zero cost to make photos
- convenience of making photos
- greater depth of field in photos
Depth of Field (DOF)
Digital cameras can have even larger DOF than most 35mm users are used to seeing.
Lack of an Adequate Depth of Field is a serious problem for Macrophotography!
On the other hand, if you want to isolate a subject from its surroundings, that huge DOF can be a serious problem!
This can be controlled by adjusting the "f-stop" with any camera.Convenience
The biggest selling point of digital cameras is convenience. You can get a digital image quickly and conveniently, without the need to develop film and scan an image.
You can print out a color image from many color printers quickly, without the need to maintain or have a color darkroom.
- Due to Safety & other considerations Darkrooms are not available in our Department!
- A Digital Darkroom is on its way to our Department!!!!!
No need to send film to processing labs
- Film can be LOST or DAMAGED!
- Commercial Film Processing is Expensive!
You can Preview your shots in the field.
- Delete any that you don't want.
- Retake those you do want!
- This may one of the BEST advantages of Digital Photography!
Think of all the time & work it takes to get to the point of taking your images.
Consider the Consequences of FAILURE to get that photo!Digital Cameras can be
- More Compact
- Weigh far Less than Film Cameras!
- Are Extremely Versatile in terms of Lens Systems.
Digital Cameras record "Metadata" along with the Image.
This contains valuable information about each image.
Software is available that allows you to edit this data and add to it.
This can be extremely valuable as you construct a database for the storage of your images.
Digital Printing vs Conventional Printing
http://clarkvision.com/imagedetail/digital_advantage.html
Digital Printing is Superior!
Good Quality Digital Cameras have become rather Inexpensive.
(5 Megapixel Camera = $400-800)
A Roll of Slide Film with Processing = $15.00
$1000.00 = 70 Rolls of Film
A Digital Camera will quickly Pay for Itself.
Knowing that you have the Image you came for may be infinitely more valuable than saving $$$ for a Film camera.
- Price Disparity is Decreasing for "High End" Cameras"
- The Same Lenses can be used for some Digital & Film SLRs.
- Savings in Film Costs decrease any Disparity over time!
- Accessories for Digital Cameras can be more expensive than similar items for Film Cameras.
I do not have any Personal Experiences with Video Cameras!
Dr. McClatchy has lots of experience with these!!!!!
Some can produce Still Images!
They can also Record Sound which can be very useful in the field or lab.
Presently, it is possible to purchase 4800 X 4800 Flatbed Scanners.
One number refers to Dots/Inch while the other refers to Lines/Inch
These approach the resolution of Slide Film and can be extremely useful.
They avoid some of the problems inherent in the use of cameras but have some obvious limitations.
I have a 2400 X 2400 scanner. Other faculty may have ones with greater resolution.
We have a first-rate "state of the art" flatbed scanner in our Digital Darkroom.
Examples of Images Scanned at different resolutions on a
2400 x 2400 HP Scanner.
Scanned at 300 dpi
Scanned at 600 dpi
Scanned at 2400 dpi
Scanned at 1200 dpiCropped from 2400 dpi scan
Cropped from 1200 dpi scanAMEN!
TOP
